Roses, and a memorable lunch.

I am enjoying my routine of getting out early in the morning before the town gets busy.  I can take in all the sights before the other visitors arrive and the only sounds I hear are the birds.  I have to remind myself that the point of these early morning walks is not just to get the much needed exercise, but also to allow the experience of being here to sink in - to, quite literally, stop and smell the roses.  This morning I walked along the newly constructed pathway on the east side of town, terminating at the Porta Farina.  Once I passed under the ancient gate I was rewarded with the view of the prettiest light pink rose climbing a honey coloured wall.  Again, my rose growing friends at home came to mind, and I took a photo for my own memory keeping and also to share with them.  

Yesterday, on a whim, we decided to drive to Anghiari.  We are attempting to broaden our horizons this trip and see new places.  I subscribe to the Youtube channel of an Italian real estate firm who is located in Sansepolcro and often has listings in nearby Anghiari, which tempted me to make the two hour drive.  We took a route past Cortona and Arezzo noticing the gradual change in landscape, going from what I think of as typical Tuscan vistas including vineyards, olive orchards, and distant hill towns - to a more rustic, wild landscape as we got nearer to our destination.  

Anghiari is situated atop a high ridge seeming to patrol the Tiber valley below it.  The long, uncharacteristically straight road that cuts through town leads your eye all the way to Sansepolcro 8 kilometres away,  and beyond to the Tuscan Apennines.  This road is called Via Della Battaglia, named for the Battle of Anghiari which took place on June 29th, 1440.  This strange battle resulted in the domination of the central part of Italy by the Florentines.  I say strange because it is reported that even thought several thousand troops were involved in this battle that lasted most of the day, only one man died - and it was not a direct result of fighting but as a fall off his horse. 

Luckily for us the only battle taking place was the one between the torrential rain and the sunshine.  We dodged the deluge by the margin of only minutes by our timely discovery of Ristorante da Alighiero which presented itself to us tantalizingly at the corner of an ancient alleyway.  We were beckoned in by the tiny vestibule, windows plastered most reassuringly with Michelin stickers.  Although we were technically an hour early for lunch (its 1:00 in Italy, not noon), we were warmly welcomed into an enchanting space which used to be a military watch-tower.  As soon as we stepped across the threshold I knew my instincts for finding good places had served us well once more.

Da Alighiero is diminutive in size but vast in personality.  Two main vaulted rooms provide a cozy atmosphere which is further enhanced by the decoration which feels simultaneously dignified and comfortable.  The space oozes with authenticity.  This can be no work of a distant, professional designer, but rather an expression of the proprietors who've lovingly adorned an already enchanting building.   Being in these rooms you feel as though you've been invited into an extension of the owner's home, but perhaps with a few more wine bottles.  The walls are filled with interesting art works including oil paintings, pencil sketches, posters, and etchings, encompassing many styles and eras.  Envy inducing objects d'arts are scattered through the rooms.  Suddenly I am gripped with the desire for massive gold candlesticks, Deruta pottery, and cast-iron chandeliers.   If you are not already tempted to have a glass of wine with your meal, the many glass fronted cabinets and various shelves filled with wine bottles will subconsciously work their magic on you.  This combination of objects layered into such a cozy space fills me with admiration for the creative person responsible for it.  

Silvia is the owner of the restaurant, along with her husband Gianni (who sadly was off on a sick day).  She is our host for lunch. We are made to feel that we are welcomed and respected in this establishment.  Her attentions feel genuine and appropriate to the event, unlike what we've sadly become accustomed to at home where overly familiar wait-staff find it necessary to enquire about the events both preceding and subsequent to your visit to their establishment.  (Or worse even, the ubiquitous question, 'how is everything tasting so far".  I swear, is there someone out there responsible for teaching this phrase to every single waiter in North America?).  Here we are treated to some very pleasant conversation about the food, the town, a bit about Silvia and how she came to run this place - spoken in either Italian or English at our pleasure.  We notice she has what seems to be quite a convivial chat with the couple near to us in her native language, German.  We later learn that French would also have been an option, and that recently a table full of Chinese tourists were flabbergasted to hear her address them in Chinese (just a little something she learned over Covid).

All of these details are a backdrop to the main event which of course is the food.  I suppose you could say that with all of the other impressions taken in our expectations were set quite high for our lunch.   A quick reading of the menu continued to support the idea that the food here was going to be good.  And very good it was.  The bread basket contained a lovely assortment of treats, from homemade grissini (bread sticks), to seed crackers, and almost cake-like unsalted Tuscan bread - perfect for mopping up the dressing from our orange and fennel salad.  Our main course was handmade pasta - for me bringoli (large spaghetti) with Bolognese sauce, and Cappelle (large spinach ravioli) for Keith.  I had a glass of vino Rosso di Casa which was just the kind of wine that makes you feel like just about the luckiest person in the world to be sitting in this fabulous place with your loved one eating lunch.  Cin cin. 

Of course we finished with dolce - one has to in these situations.  I had decided upon mine before the main course.  I am a fan of rose flavour.  My favourite tea is Rose Royale from Mariage Freres which I have a small stockpile of at home and bring out on special occasions.  It's like drinking fresh roses!  The dessert that caught my eye was Panna cotta with rose jelly.  Silvia explained that she makes the jelly from roses from her garden.  I read later that these rose plants were transplanted to her home from her old home in the historic centre.  Call me romantic but there is something quite special about eating jelly made from ancient roses still bearing flowers today.   I must see if I can make a deal with my friend, Leslie, later this summer - rose petals for rose jelly.  I must have this delicacy in my life.  Keith has chosen the soffice di mela della Mamma.  If Silvia has learned any of her cooking skill from her mom this cake had to be a good choice.  It certainly gave a good impression of Mamma - like a delectable, warm apple cake that conjures up fantasies about an aproned matron welcoming you home with the scent of baking wafting from a cozy kitchen...

And finally came time for coffee.  Shots of strong but mellow espresso served in tiny, thick china cups and saucers accompanied by homemade chocolates and tiny meringues ended a spectacular meal.  (I am now a convert to this tradition).  

What a delightful surprise this lunch was.  From the character of the space, to the hospitality, and heavenly food, everything was perfect.  The experience was more than the sum of all its parts - it was truly memorable.  I am glad that there are people in the world who's talents have the consequence of making others happy.  I leave lunch being more than satisfied - I am impressed and inspired.  And my adoration of pink roses has been notched up!